Fire and pinion smoke greet us in the morning light. At the bottom of the canyon, cool air lingers but the sun is threatening to heat up. Cottonwood trees are starting to show a few yellow leaves, signs of the approaching autumn. This scene has been repeated countless times over millions of years, while showing up in plastic soled shoes and rubber tires only recently became the norm. A group of us gathers around the fire, sharing stories of how we came to share space together in the backdrop of Ute Mountain.
I am at Pueblo Seed and Food Company’s farm gathering to learn about garlic, chile, and grain production. It has been a long trek to make it to Cortez, CO while my own farm is laden with the fruits of labor. A little weary, and very excited the event begins with garlic. Taking clay soil from the farm we make garlic mudballs. The heads of garlic now wrapped in clay are set in the coals to cook for the next hour.
Dan Hobbs and Nanna Meyers have been farming this ground for 3 seasons after moving from the rich agricultural area around Pueblo, CO. They now found themselves on a farm protected by canyon walls and in isolation from cross pollination of the GMO corn they were once surrounded by. Working many 1-2 acre plots they are able to grow a wider diversity of crops through the geographic isolation of canyon walls, but their focus remains on a few key species.
Chiles and garlic have been cultivated for thousands of years. The peppers we are familiar with hail from North America and have been bred and adapted throughout the New World. Garlic comes from roots in Central Asia (Uzbekistan and the like) then spread across Asia and Europe. Both stemming from wild ancestors, they have been stewarded by humans for thousands of years creating the many sizes and shapes we now love.
On our walking tour Dan repeatedly brings up how this is a “wild” place to farm. Farming away from the endless straight and flat rows of conventional ag, this land is surrounded by wild desert. Animals big and small inhabit the area making crop production limited. Luckily deer aren’t fans of spicy chiles and garlic. The fields slope down from the canyon towards the creek in the valley. Using gravity and flood irrigation keeps the everything growing through the season.
Besides a tractor and its implements, not much of this style of farming has changed in thousands of years. Rows, flooded. Harvest and planting done by hand. Staple foods produced to create lasting medicine in daily diets. There is a timeless sense of this place, and you can feel the deep agricultural history and legacy left by the indigenous inhabitants.
The focus of this tour was to express the medicinal benefits of garlic and chiles. How they carry antiviral properties that when regularly consumed protect our immune systems. What perfect timing too as days grow colder and flu season lurks around the corner. I imagine our ancestors, while not knowing the chemical compounds, where aware this food kept them healthy. That being close to food not only kept their bellies full, but their systems charged to fight disease.
Heritage crops have undergone a tremendous loss of diversity since the first hybrid varieties began being distributed. Combined with destructive and chemical ridden farming practices the health of our food has steadily diminished. People like Dan and Fanny are on a mission to reclaim space for these crops and provide access to nutritious food through their bakeshop and store in downtown Cortez.
The passion, and action, they dedicate towards growing from seed to seed is rare in an agricultural world where a lack of diversity has propelled farms to specialize. It is hard to encapsulate just how much effort it takes to not only grow and process a grain product, but to simultaneously select and save seed adds another level to their work. These folks are pioneers of a different sort. Rather than run blindly towards questionable technology they recognize the inherent wisdom our ancestors were so aware of and are dedicated to restoring our communities one plate at a time.
Our morning wraps up with a generous lunch. Watermelon, cucumber, mint salad, chile relleno stuffed with corn grits above bolita beans, paired with the sweetened garlic from the fire.
We are fed imagery of suffering, inconvenience, and poor health when thinking about our ancestors. While some of our relatives were not eating well, I am convinced this is a meal that has been served countless times before. A plate of real food, grown and prepared with love, designed to increase health rather than the opposite. If they were eating half this good regularly I think they have one up on us.
I want to extend gratitude to our hosts and the Pueblo Seed and Food Crew. Thank you for having me. I also want to give a shoutout to the paid subscribers who made this trip possible through their generous support. Finally those whose guest beds made the journey possible, thank you all.
Farm News
Chilefest! Come try some of the infamous Pueblo chiles roasted to perfection. Preorders for half and full bushels of mild, medium, and hot chiles available ($35 and $65). We will have individual bags available but larger quantities must preorder by emailing info@folksfarmandseed.com
Expanded Winter CSA! The CSA will run from November-March offering pre-packed veggie boxes complete with a range of delicious winter produce. This is made possible by a new EQIP funded high tunnel that will help us offer fresh, unheated, greens throughout the cold season. Don’t miss out on the unique and delicious flavors of cold sweetened produce.
Farm Stand Hours: 10-6pm Wed-Friday, 10-4pm Saturday and Sunday
Hopefully stocked this week:
Greens: Hearts and Souls Salad Mix, chard, kale, arugula, bok choi
Roots: Onions, shallots, carrots, turnips, radishes and garlic
Veggies: Cherry Tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes, field tomatoes, summer squash, shishito peppers, Salvatierra peppers (spicy poblano flavor), fresno peppers, Jimmy Nardellos, eggplant, dragon tongue and pole beans, fennel
Flowers: Large mixed bouquets
Herbs: Parsley, dill, basil
Perennials: Gallons are $10 each. We currently have columbine, foxglove, sedum, elderberry, elecampane, daisy, goldenrod, gaillardia, lavender, mint, thyme, sage, mountain mint, lemon balm, and echinacea. We also have 4.5” perennials for $5 each! Now is the perfect time to plant for stunning blooms next year.
Lehi Ranch, High Point Bison, KREAM Kimchi, Jodar Farms Eggs, Rey Atelier Home Goods, Bread Chic Sourdough, Fox Den Coffee, Owl Tree Farm Worm Compost, Bee Squared Apiaries Honey, Abuelita’s Hot Sauce, Christie Leighton Jewelry, Life’s A Buch Kombucha